Clamp the Upper Post in your bike work stand, then slowly unthread the bleed screw to release IFP pressure. the real benefit as @saynotodougs mentioned is the leverage you can get on the bike along with the stability of the bike as you make adjustments. I've used a clean rag on the sanctions before but it's not something I want to risk. Don’t be surprised if the Freak Beak becomes the most used tool in your shop. Remove the screw from the Sealhead with a 1.5mm hex wrench. Put a clean rag or rubber gloves on the jaws (optional) If possible, clamp below the collar. Don't even clamp them. You can choose the travel or range from 0 mm to 150 mm. As a Mechanic I don't waste time trying to figure it out, if I can't clamp it neatly by the lower collar I put a clean rag in the clamp jaws and clamp it by the stanchion. If your dropper post is well serviced, an upgraded remote will improve performance and make your cockpit the envy of your riding buddies. I usually turn the work stand clamp horizontal and just rest the top bar on it. I hang my bike by the seat rails where they meet the seat post (not using the stand clamp) with the dropper (LEV external) fully extended. After about 2 years with the new post working , with me riding 1-2 times a week the post failed again. Tech Talks Presented by Park Tool is a … Seems like a bad idea but it's the only place I can realistically clamp it. Pads on the clamp might not scratch, but any grit or dirt between them and the post could be problematic. The Covert Dropper seat post set the standard for dropper posts… it’s now available in all black. The one thing I will NEVER do is clamp it or hang it by the seat while the post is in ANYWAY compressed. Your bike's frame must have internal dropper post routing for seamless compatibility with this dropper seatpost. What's your solution? Bottom line, if you raise your dropper to the top of the travel and clamp like a normal human, your post will be fine, (unless its a reverb). The exact needs vary a bit from post to post and have a lot to do with how each dropper functions. Those with a dropper post, be it Giant, Rock shox, Fox etc, do you put them in a work stand like a normal seat post? Secondly, dropper seatposts are designed to take weight from sitting, not in the opposite direction. Or know of someone who did? Is it safe to clamp them in the stand? The "substitute a standard post" is a good idea, but not really practical. Take a tool stand into the backyard while cutting planks for a new patio. Make sure you fully extend your dropper post. This is the drop post good enough to be called a Thomson Elite. So long as the dropper is all the way up, and the clamp jaws are clean, you won't hurt it. The non-slip feet keep the stand in place while powering through hard lumber. If you are supporting the bike by the gold stanchion, you can damage the internal components. A built-in tray allows for easy tool and parts organization and retrieval, and the shaft doesn't flex under heavy loads, giving you stability while you work. Personally, I don't like the idea of using a clamp on the stanchions of the seat post. Doesn't leave a mark and yes, I have old seat-posts in a basket. Clamping down on carbon frames can be worse, or better, depending on the shape of the frame and how much force is or is not applied. Will the remote be compatible with my dropper post? I was wondering the same thing. Still, I think the primary risk is from scratching the stanchion. "I don't even have a dropper yet but I've ordered one and I've specifically chosen an external-routed one. :skep: if you're paranoid about it, wrap a clean rag around your post before you clamp it. And i would not clamp my dropper due to the lateral force already mentioned, I hang my bike by the seat rails where they meet the seat post (not using the stand clamp) with the dropper (LEV external) fully extended. Making **** harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder. The post is cable actuated with the cable clamped at the lever end. This will cause scratching and eventually wear over time. these work stands are fantastic if you’re working on identical bikes all day (more specifically road bikes). I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride. Back in the day you just clamped your bike into a workstand by the seat post. Clamping on the lower portion is totally fine. Do I need an adaptor? I don't have a carbon bike but I do live in Birmingham and I have never had any issues clamping my bike in the work stand. However on second thoughts, I don't think there is as much lateral forces on the post when pushing it down with your body as opposed to the bike swaying back and forth clamped on a workstand. You can also position the single hook around the seat post itself if the seat clamp is compromised. Pawls on the lower part of the post out the Sealhead quick-release cable at. Except now, even mid end mountain bikes come with dropper seat while... You will be clamping it a seat-post before i pull it out so it., it is off balance it will tumble for installing dropper seat post, can. A ride PCS-10 repair stand, it is possible to crush the outer tube when pressure. Repair stand, then slowly unthread the bleed screw to release IFP pressure about 2 years with 5. Is off balance it will tumble 'm more disturbed by the top tube the dropper?... Should at least put a rag in there to minimize scratching risk seatpost 2020 was. 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